Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Londres. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Londres. Afficher tous les articles

samedi 9 avril 2016

"Plaisirs à la mode dans les jardins de Vauxhall" par George Cruikshank (1823)

Fashionable entertainments at Vauxhall
British Library
« The illuminations began before we arrived, and I must confess that, upon entering the gardens, I found every sense overpaid with more than expected pleasure » remarque avec ironie le narrateur du Citoyen du Monde en observant les jardins de Vauxhall. Ecrit par l’irlandais Oliver Goldsmith en 1760, cet équivalent des Lettres Persanes (1721) met en scène un voyageur chinois qui décrit avec force détails les mœurs et pratiques de la société géorgienne. A l’instar du roman épistolaire de Montesquieu, la subtile technique littéraire du regard étranger permet de souligner les travers du mode de vie britannique.
Il est vrai que la vogue des pleasure gardens était décriée par plus d’un. Ce type de parcs d’attractions populaires constituait en quelque sorte le Disneyland de l’époque. Après avoir payé des frais d’entrée peu onéreux, l’homme du monde s’échappait de l’agitation et l’étiquette londoniennes pour pénétrer dans un jardin qui recelait de plaisirs, spectacles, et même de scandales… Contrairement aux parcs ouverts au public tels que les landscape gardens, on pouvait assister à un concert sous un kiosque, monter sur un manège, admirer une ménagerie. Moins codifiés que les bals de la bonne société, les pleasure gardens accueillaient une audience plus large dans une ambiance décontractée. Les membres de la haute bourgeoisie côtoyaient alors marchands, marins, militaires, et même prostituées. C’est là que plusieurs hommes retrouvaient leurs amantes pour les conduire dans les recoins boisés du parc après les avoir séduites.

Phoebus Levin, La Scène de danse dans les jardins de Cremorne, 1864

Les jardins de Vauxhall, ci-dessus représentés par le caricaturiste George Cruikshank, comptent parmi les plus célèbres de ces parcs à thèmes. Construit au sud de la Tamise en 1661, Vauxhall se mit à comporter à partir du 18ème siècle toutes sortes d’attractions, du jongleur étranger aux bals costumés, grâce à la perspicacité d’un jeune architecte-entrepreneur, Jonathan Tyers. La plupart de ces soirées s’éternisaient jusqu’à très tard dans la nuit, parfois jusqu’à l’aube. On y allait pour ses fontaines illuminées et ses feux d’artifice. Vauxhall était aussi réputé pour ses boudoirs-restaurants, dans lesquels des groupes de 10 à 12 personnes dégustaient friandises et ponch. Très vite, Tyers réduisit le billet à un shilling, ce qui rendit l’entrée du parc à la portée de presque tous les membres de la société géorgienne. La population de Londres, plutôt jeune pour l’époque, s’y rendait pour se montrer et admirer les dernières modes vestimentaires.

Cruikshank dépeint ces derniers dansant au rythme d’un concert de musique populaire. Cette gravure est à l’origine issue d’un roman-feuilleton mensuel intitulé La Vie londonienne, publié à partir de 1821 par le journaliste Pierce Egan. Chaque numéro relatait les pérégrinations de Tom et Jerry (qui ont par la suite donné leurs noms aux célèbres personnages du dessin animé créé par Hanna-Barbera) dans la capitale britannique. Toutes les illustrations furent réalisées par Cruikshank. La publication du roman de Egan et de ses vignettes connut un succès immédiat. La façon dont Cruikshank mettait en scène les vices et la bêtise de la haute société était fort appréciée dans les cercles littéraires.
Au sein d’une composition horizontale, au cadrage serré, l’attention du spectateur se concentre sur les danseurs en habits de soirée. Le couple central ainsi que les figures du premier plan sont dessinés avec un marquage plus prononcé, si bien qu’on distingue à peine l’homme saoul tombé par terre, en bas à gauche. Non loin du couple, un homme dévisage de haut en bas les formes généreuses de la danseuse à travers son monocle. Sur l’estrade, un groupe de musiciens militaires divertit son audience.
Ce qu’un amateur moderne averti remarquera peut-être, c’est la présence de deux hommes noirs au sein de l’orchestre. Jusqu’au début du 19ème, la Grande-Bretagne était impliquée dans le commerce triangulaire et la traite des noirs, mais l’esclavage ne fut jamais déclaré comme légal en Angleterre. Après les guerres napoléoniennes, de nombreux soldats noirs s’installèrent à Londres. Ceci dit, la vogue du racisme scientifique et de l’orientalisme conduisait de nombreux londoniens à traiter les noirs comme des bêtes de foire pour que ceux-ci soient « montrés » dans les parcs de loisirs. Il est difficile de s’exprimer sur les véritables opinions de l’illustrateur, mais Cruikshank produisit The New Union Club, l’une des gravures condensant les préjugés racistes les plus virulents de l’époque, qui tançait également des personnalités abolitionnistes.

The New Union Club, 1819
National Maritime Museum

Issu d’une famille de riches artisans, George Cruikshank (1792 –1878) étudia la caricature dans l’atelier de son père. A partir de 1808, le fils s’établit à son propre compte dans la capitale car il avait développé un style personnel. Il vendait la plupart de ses dessins à des publicitaires, ce qui lui permit de s’attirer la protection de Johnny Fairburn, l’un des éditeurs les plus réputés de Londres. C’est en vilipendant la famille royale et de puissants politiciens que Cruikshank acquit sa notoriété. Beaucoup lui reprochaient sa facture relâchée et ses sujets volontiers grivois.
De son vivant, on qualifiait Cruikshank de « Hogarth moderne ». Hogarth avait en effet été l’initiateur de la caricature de mœurs, tandis que James Gillray (1757 – 1815), dont Cruikshank s’est beaucoup inspiré, s’était distingué dans la satire politique. Cruikshank s’emploiera à couvrir tous les genres, tout en connaissant une carrière florissante d’illustrateur, notamment pour les contes de Grimm, Dickens et Thackeray.

Au Museum of London, les conservateurs responsables du Londres moderne ont recréé une galerie immergeant le visiteur dans l’atmosphère des Vauxhall Gardens que Cruikshank se plaît à blâmer. Le panneau d’introduction de la salle explique que des affiches publicitaires vantaient les mérites du programme hebdomadaire afin d’assurer la fréquentation constante du parc. C’est pourquoi on peut apercevoir derrière des vitrines un clown, des personnes costumées et des aristocrates arborant les chapeaux les plus extravagants.


Sources Internet : British Library, History.co.uk, Museum of London, Spartacus Educational


vendredi 1 avril 2016

Camden Market

This article was part of a digital recording project I've participated in with other students from the University of Westminster, in partnership with the Museum of London

27 July 2013




Camden, capital of punk rock. Whenever I think of the market, I remember with emotion the wall reading The Clash played here in 1977, destroyed by the flames five years ago. In a sense, the band’s song ‘London Burning’ was prophetic.

Many will tell you that Camden has become very touristy, that it isn’t what it used to be. What is certain is that it is a very busy place. It is listed as one of the most famous destinations in London, with an average of 100,000 visitors each weekend. Originally opened on Sundays only - the main trading day - the market extended its hours on Saturdays. If you are looking for Goth clothes, Doc Martens, or a T-shirt showing the name of your favourite rock band, this is the place to be! You can also buy fast food to eat near the canal, scooter-seating style. 



We arrived at 2.15 on a Saturday. The Buck and Inverness Street Markets were relatively quiet, so we had to answer to some enquiries related to our recorder. What I enjoy the most about these sections is that visitors can bargain for goods. There, probably the most recurrent sentence will be ‘how much is it?’. Since the Buck Street Market is semi-covered, it was easy enough to capture casual conversations between friends, customers and retailers. I’ve always appreciated this almost intimate atmosphere created by the narrow windings of the stalls’ alleys. Camden Lock Village, on the other hand, was more crowded, and a variety of accents from stallholders serving foreign cuisine were registered. 


In a sense, locals are right. The markets are invaded by shoppers and sellers from all over the world, looking for the best deal. Those are described as some type of cheap ladies’ paradise. I guess that forty years ago, it was more associated to bohemian or alternative lifestyles. Never mind. To me, Camden will always resonate with the sounds of electric guitars – as those heard on a shop in the Lock Village - suffused by this typically English independent-minded mood. In Camden, you can wear anything, be anyone, display your piercings and flamboyant hairstyles. No one will stare. Or rather, you’ll be welcomed.
   
                

jeudi 31 mars 2016

Portobello Market

This article was part of a digital recording project I've participated in with other students from the University of Westminster, in partnership with the Museum of London

July 2013





You observe the endless stalls on either sides of the street. You want to buy the vegetables, the cameos, the antique prints, but you prefer staring, enjoying the comfort of your seat. Suddenly, you notice a tall man wearing a blue shirt and carrying his jacket over his left shoulder. He turns around and scrutinises the camera through his blue eyes. Have you recognised him?


Portobello Market, made famous by Hugh Grant’s wandering through the road of the same name in the romantic comedy Notting Hill, counts among the most popular West London destinations for tourists and locals. It is notably famous for displaying one of the world’s largest selections of antiques and collectibles.

We deliberately arrived when the hustle, haggle and crowds were at their liveliest, on a late Saturday morning. Portobello streches for over more than one mile: you first come across antiques and bric-a-brac to notice fruit and vegetables sold around the Elgin Crescent crossing. The rest of the market is devoted to cheap toys or batteries and second hand clothes. The shop managers on the two sides of the road take advantage of the Saturday market to stay open and attract customers.  

   

Our recorder often went unnoticed, so we had the opportunity to register many private conversations and accents. The loudest sellers were definitely those who offered meal deals. In fact, the food corner looked so mouth-watering that Clarisa and I couldn’t resist the temptation to have lunch in the street.


Portobello hosts by far one of the busiest markets I’ve ever seen, sometimes you can barely move and we often lost track of each other! On your journey, you are accompanied by several live bands and bizarre performers, but the sonic memory I will probably keep in mind is the one of this stallholder selling old records and vinyls, singing out loud over the tunes he was playing.




         


dimanche 27 mars 2016

Brick Lane Market

This article was part of a digital recording project I've participated in with other students from the University of Westminster, in partnership with the Museum of London

27 June 2013
‘You can spread your soul over a paddy field, you can whisper to a mango tree, you can feel the earth between your toes and know that this is the place, the place where it begins and ends.’

Monica Ali, Brick Lane (2004)



This quotation from Bangladeshi author Monica Ali, to my mind, perfectly epitomises the multicultural mood of Bricklane, its nearby alleys, hues, smells and noises. Formerly established as a farmer’s market in the seventeenth century, the marketplace has been transformed by successive waves of Bangladeshi immigrants. As many Londoners would tell you, almost anything can be found on Bricklane, from antiques, vintage records and clothes to a wide range of international cuisine. Fancied by art students and bargain hunters, it is renowned for its street artworks by Banksy and D*Face.

                                    

Bricklane Market runs every Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm. It is divided in several sections such as the Sunday UpMarket, the Backyard and the Vintage Market, the Tea Rooms and the Boiler House Food Hall. We mostly stayed on the main street but allowed ourselves to enter some of these arcades like the Backyard Market and the Food Hall, now operating as showcases for emergent designers and organic food tasting.

The element which struck Clarisa and I was the huge size of the market, which partly accounts for the length of our recording. When we got to the Hanbury Street crossing, we realised that the northern end of the street was invaded with stalls and covered warehouses converted into halls.
   

We decided to go at the busiest moment of the day, that is, lunchtime. Bricklane Market was decidedly more diverse in terms of customers; most of them were tourists, notably from French, Hispanic and Asian origins. Despite its bustle, I had the feeling that it was quieter than the Flower Market: to attract customers, stallholders would directly come towards you and value face-to-face exchange rather than shout to offer their best deals.


The main difficulty we experienced was to capture a full conversation. We did not wish to stand too close to customers for fear of appearing intrusive. When we approached stalls, sellers thought we wanted to purchase some goods. They gave us strange looks while we shook our heads in refusal. Still, I really appreciated this silent mode of communication, as we had to express where we wanted to go by signs, something that completely contrasted with the agitation of the street.

 




13 August 2013

‘Cherry, cherry!’ yells one of the fruit and veg stallholders at the crossing of Bethnal Green Road and Shoreditch High Street.
                                        
We started our journey at 1.30 where many bike riders come to a halt to enjoy the atmosphere of Brick Lane market, its display and products. The Shoreditch part is by far one of the strangest marketplaces we have ever experienced, but in a way, it perfectly embodies the eccentric mood of London. On Bethnal Green Road, two car parks have been converted into a series of stalls presenting anything you can possibly find in the supermarket at discount prices: toiletries, batteries, cooking devices or stationary. We even spotted bike wheels and coffee beans sacks waiting to be purchased.


                                                   
A variety of musical styles was registered, either to keep sellers company or performed by street bands: early fifties rock’n’roll, contemporary RnB, drum’n’bass and folk. The cosmopolitan dimension was well represented as you had the impression that countries from all continents had gathered on this Sunday afternoon to produce a mosaic of accents and languages. Japanese, Bangladeshi or Afghan sellers would greet you with a smile to ask you how you were. A Spanish man approached a cook serving empanadas in his native language, but she replied that unfortunately, she was Italian. It was amusing to observe French people and detect their nationality from the start, just by looking at their clothes. 
                                          
As we elbowed our way through the main road, it was so crowded that sometimes we could barely move. Around the Backyard Market, we noticed a couple of stalls we hadn’t seen before, such as an artist cutting your face’s silhouette on paper in the Victorian style. Many customers were trying on vintage cameras. Once more, it was loud and busy. As a whole, the audience seemed more relaxed and vibrant than in other markets we have visited.

Yep, Brick Lane is definitely one of the most diverse places of London in terms of population, cuisine and goods.